archeology

My mom has always wanted to visit Petit Jean State Park. In all our adventures when I was a little girl, I am surprised my family had never visited. So, one day we just randomly decided to take off for Petit Jean the next morning!

Honestly, I do not understand why Petit Jean is such a popular tourist attraction. I understand that there are amazing scenic views, waterfalls, the geology is unique, and the mountain has much history. But I feel like everywhere has beauty, history, uniqueness, and can be a waterfall with the right runoff. Regardless, I did really enjoy our visit and learning about its history. It is a place that we intend to go back and visit again (and probably again). So, my lack of understanding its popularity is not going to keep us away from such a beautiful and bountiful state park.

What Makes Petit Jean State Park So Popular (Things to Do)

As Arkansas’s first state park, Petit Jean embodies everything that anyone could hope for in a state park. With less than 3,000 acres, there is plenty of history, hiking, lake activities, lodging, a restaurant, outdoor activities, scenic views, and more that entice people from all over the nation to visit. When Cedar Falls is flowing well, tourism peaks to see its beauty. Natural bridges, creeks, and unique rock formations can be found along the hiking trails.

The most renowned of all the waterfalls at this state park is Cedar Falls, which is on the front of most publications. Cascading 95-feet down over a rocky cliff, this waterfall is one of the most photographed in the state! If you are an experienced hiker, the trail down to the bottom of the falls is quite a rocky experience. For us lazy (or handicapped) people, there is a scenic overlook that consists of a long barrier free boardwalk that leads to an open viewing area. You can even hike down to the falls from this point, as well.

Unique geology and rock formations can be found along trails like Seven Hollows. If you are interested in pictographs, be sure to venture down the Rock House Cave Trail. For a short, easy hike through gigantic sandstone boulders, journey along Bear Cave Trail. On your way to Cedar Falls, take the long route on Cedar Creek Canyon Trail to see more falls and deep pools. Cedar Creek Trail is located above Cedar Falls and will guide you around the top of the waterfall. To see all the park’s nature and wildlife, you will have to be an experienced hiker to trek along the 12-mile Winthrop P. Rockefeller Boy Scout Trail. For a trail that connects park amenities with overlooks, grab a bike or hike the CCC Hike & Bike Trail.

YMCA College Lodge rock ruins at Stout's Point Overlook at Petit Jean State Park in Morrilton, Arkansas

Petit Jean Mountain rises 1,120 feet above the Arkansas River Valley. While no vantage point is any better than the other, the park does have many overlooks that provide a grand view over the valley. Stout’s Point is one of my favorites, as it provides the history of Petit Jean, her gravesite, a fantastic view of the Arkansas River and portion of the Trail of Tears route and has an old YMCA building at this site. A barrier free walkway guides you along the top of the overlook. However, the camp building and Petit Jean’s gravesite must be walked to on rocky ground. While there are other vantage points, the Mary Ann Richter Overlook is a great place to stop at to see Mount Nebo and Mount Magazine. Lastly, the Cedar Falls Overlook provides a barrier free walkway to see the famous Cedar Falls waterfall.

The state park has quite a bit of amenities for people to enjoy. They offer lodging in cabins, Mather Lodge, campsites, and yurts. Mather Lodge holds a lot of history, being the only lodge built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the entire state. Built of native log and stone, the Lodge sits on the bluffs overlooking Cedar Creek Canyon. The restaurant provides the perfect setting to enjoy the 1930s lodge and canyon views.

In addition to hiking, Petit Jean State Park is host to an airport, amphitheater, swimming pools, basketball and tennis court, playgrounds, and more! A boat launch ramp provides access to a lake where you can fish, kayak, and more.

Furthermore, the park is a certified Trail of Tears National Historic Trail Site. In the 1830s, Cherokee Indians and Southeastern tribes experienced a forced migration to Oklahoma along the Arkansas River. The Trail of Tears route included both land and river routes. River routes were often faster and the Arkansas River played an instrumental role in the Indian removal.

How Petit Jean Mountain Got Its Name

Petit Jean Mountain was named after Adrienne Dumont, a young 18th century French woman, who did not like being told no. When her fiancé, Chavet, set off to explore the Louisiana Territory in the New World, she decided to find a way to join him on his voyage. So, she cut her hair and disguised herself as a boy in order to find passage on his ship. The voyage was long and hard, and she was lucky to have survived being a lowly cabin boy. When they neared the mountain, the woman became gravely ill. In her helpless state, it was discovered that she was actually a woman. Her dying wish was to be buried high upon the mountain overlooking the river. Set to marry Adrienne when he returned from the New Worl,d Chavet’s love for her remains today in her burial site on the mountain top and in the naming of the mountain. She was buried under her name on the ship – Petit Jean (Little John).

However, there is much debate on this story being true or not. The preserved burial site is even debatable becuase no one knows anything about where she was actually buried or if she was even buried on top of the mountain. It was just a mound of dirt that we suppose is the site and has since been preserved. But the story is romantic in nature and it is nice to think that it is a true story.

Other theories about the mountain’s name include being named after a local hunter/trapper named Little John that was killed by the Osage Indians in 1732. Another theory on the name comes from the 19th century name for Petit Jean River – Petit Juane. So, whichever story you believe is entirely up to you!

Becoming An Arkansas State Park

Evidence suggests that Native American Indians inhabited the mountain 1,000 years ago. There is also evidence of 100 documented archeological sites and the largest rock art collection in the state. In the 1840s, the first permanent white settlers moved to the area. In 1891, a large mansion was built on the mountain overlooking the Arkansas River and was later converted into Hotel Petit Jean. The property was sold in the 1920s and donated to the Young Men’s Christian Academy. They built several more buildings, in which the rock ruins of the College Lodge can be seen at Stout’s Point Overlook.

In 1906, Dr. Thomas William Hardison explored the rugged area of Petit Jean Mountain and fell in love with its beauty. Pursuing making the mountain a national park, it was declined in 1921 because the land was too small and not unique enough in the United States to be a national park. It was suggested that the proposal be sent to the state to be declared a state park. So, in 1923, the state legislature passed Act 276, which recognized donated lands reserved to be a part of a park and designating Petit Jean as Arkansas’s first state park. In 1927, Act 172 created the Arkansas State Parks Commission and gave them the authority to acquire and oversee land to be reserved as a state park.

Beginning in 1933, the Civilian Conservation Corps began constructing facilities like roads, trails, dams, cabins, and Mather Lodge on Petit Jean Mountain. Much of the park’s infrastructure is due to the CCC, as they built most of the park’s significant buildings. The Lodge, administration building, water treatment building, field chimney, and cabins are an example of their work. Roads were constructed to connect overlooks and trails, giving visitors access to more amenities. Trails were constructed for public use and enjoyment through the mountain’s natural beauty. With less than 3,000 acres, Petit Jean offered plenty to see and do and the CCC made sure the public could enjoy all that could be offered. As a result of their efforts, 26 properties are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Today, there is ample camping, hiking, and things to do that makes visiting more than just a day trip.

Nearby Attractions

Just down the road from the campsite is the Museum of Automobiles and the petting zoo Barnyard Friends & Stables. Nearby, in the greater area, is Lake Dardanelle State Park and Mount Nebo State Park. Further away is Mount Magazine State Park and the highest point in the state.

Where is your favorite place to visit or hike at Petit Jean State Park?

In case anyone is wondering, Toltec Mounds Archeological State Park is no more. For quite a long time, there have been discussions and arguments over the park’s name. Apparently, the park was named after the wrong Indian tribe and some people have been fighting to restore honor to the tribe that once occupied the land. The concern was that the park has always been named Toltec and all media publications were printed under this name. Another concern was that the occupying tribe’s name is actually unknown to archaeologists. Regardless of the concerns, the site needed to honor and respect the Native American Indians that built the mounds. So, the state consulted with the Quapaw Nation and Arkansas Archaeological Survey to finally agree on changing the name to reflect the tribe who supposedly occupied the area and created the mounds.

So how did the Plum Bayou Mounds acquire the wrong name in the first place?

From 1857 to 1990, Mrs. Gilbert Knapp owned the land that contained the mounds. Initially, the mounds were named after her – the Knapp Mounds – but an official name was quickly created. From the beginning of her ownership, she always thought that the Toltec Indians of Mexico were responsible for building the mounds. However, Mrs. Knapp’s interest in archaeology of the mounds started an investigation on the property in 1883 by Edward Palmer, a field investigator for the Bureau of Ethnology of the Smithsonian Institution. Palmer excavated in eight of the mounds and his findings proved Mrs. Knapp’s idea wrong. According to the findings, archaeologists believe the North American Indian ancestors were the ones who built the mounds. Since their name was unknown, archaeologists decided to name the tribe after a nearby stream – the Plum Bayou Indians.

For quite some time, the area was known as the Toltec Mounds. Continual debate over changing the name pursued. Some thought it would be too much trouble to change everything while others wanted to recognize and honor the actual occupants of the land. The Toltec Mounds remained until November 2022, when they officially renamed the state park after its actual occupants. Yet, people have to be careful when talking about Plum Bayou because it can still be confusing to those who did not get the memo that the Toltec Mounds had a name change.

Plum Bayou Indians

The Plum Bayou Indians (or whatever their tribe’s name actually was) were highly intelligent people whose culture was very distinct from other tribes. They created an entire way of life around the sun and its rotation around the earth. They knew a mathematical system way beyond a lot of people’s understanding, or at least my understanding.

While Plum Bayou mounds are found across the entire state, they specifically occupied this land from about 650 to 1050 BC. They built 18 mounds next to an oxbow lake, which served as a port of water transportation. A 10-foot-high and 1-mile-long earthen embankment wall was built to surround the mounds and protect its occupants. The mounds were created for social, religious, and political activities. Only one mound is said to have been used for burial purposes. The mounds’ locations were strategically placed based on the alignment of solar positions. Standardized units of measurement were used to determine the spacing of each mound.

While its small community here was made up of mainly religious and political leaders, the site was a central waypoint and destination for many Native American Indians. Their location was strategically placed near the water, which many people used for travel purposes. Whether traveling by land or water, Indians from the other Plum Bayou mounds in the state would make the trek to Plum Bayou for religious purposes, political issues, and ceremonial purposes. Considering the size of Little Rock, this site’s traffic was much larger in its prime, as it served as the culture’s center point for such activities.

A Change of Times

In the 1400s, a different Native American Indian tribe occupied the land for a short time. Much later in time, the land became farmland for settlers. In 1977, consistent archaeological research began at the mounds and still continues today. Even after 135 years of farming on the mound site, there is still plenty of evidence of its Native American history. Fortunately, erosion and farming have not washed away the mounds, as clear evidence of them remains.

Visiting The Mounds

Plum Bayou is unique in that it is 1 of 4 National Historic Landmarks in the state park system. In 1978, the site was dedicated as a National Historic Landmark. For over a hundred years, the mound site has attracted national interest from tourists and archaeologists. Probably rightfully so because this park interprets the largest and most complex mound site in the entire state!

Inside the Visitor Center is a unique collection of artifacts and animal bones, and information about the archaeological excavations. Unfortunately, the findings from the first excavation in 1882-1883 are not on display here. You can see these artifacts at the Smithsonian Institute.

For the history buffs, there is a complete timeline of occupants of the area. You can even read about Palmer’s descriptions of his excavations in Report on the Mound Explorations of the Bureau of Ethnology, published in 1894 by Cyrus Thomas. If science or math is more interesting, then you will enjoy learning about how the mounds were formed and which was used for what purpose. Perhaps art is your thing, and you will enjoy the sketches drawn in 1883 by Henry J. Lewis of the mounds by Palmer’s descriptions.

The only barrier free trail at this location is Knapp Trail, which will lead you through the prehistoric Indian site to 3 of the 18 mounds. Be prepared, though, because the trail can be very hot in summer heat as there is no shade. There is also a guided tour that educates people about the Native American Indians that occupied the land and built the mounds over a thousand years ago.

So, next time you are in the Little Rock area, be sure to drive out to this unique piece of history that archaeologists are still trying to understand. While there are plenty of mounds to see, it is important to know that a lot of walking can be involved to see them all up close.

What was your favorite part of the mounds when you visited?

Tag: archeology

Arkansas’s Most Popular (And First) State Park: Petit Jean State Park

How Toltec Mounds Became Plum Bayou Mounds Archeological State Park